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TIME: Almanac 1995
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TIME Almanac 1995.iso
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0319270.000
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<text id=90TT0695>
<title>
Mar. 19, 1990: Oman:Arabia's Magic Kingdom
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1990
Mar. 19, 1990 The Right To Die
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
TRAVEL, Page 75
Arabia's Magic Kingdom
</hdr>
<body>
<p>Ending its isolation, Oman welcomes tourists--rich ones
</p>
<p>By Dean Fischer/Miscat
</p>
<p> The sun rises like a fiery red ball from the blue-black
depths of the Arabian Sea. As darkness retreats across the
Hajar mountains, the barren landscape changes from gray-brown
to beige and copper. It is the birth of a new day in the
Sultanate of Oman, a legendary home of Sinbad the Sailor and
fabled source of frankincense for the Queen of Sheba. In this
New Mexico-size nation, located on the cutting edge of the
Arabian Peninsula, the dawn light-and-shadow show is a
spectacular curtain raiser to a host of attractions that have
made it one of the world's newest and most unusual tourist
destinations.
</p>
<p> Known as the Magic Kingdom, Oman (estimated pop. 2 million)
is a land of exceptional beauty and diversity. A 1,000-mile
coastline arcs southward from the limestone cliffs of Musandam
to the powdery beaches of Salalah, a major trading town in the
monsoon-brushed province of Dhofar. Southwest of the former
slave-trading port of Sur lies a 5,000-sq.-mi. sea of sand
whose dune ridges rise as high as 350 ft. above the Wahiba
desert floor. To the north, the Jebel Akhdar (Green Mountain)
anchors the Hajar range. Mud-brick houses cling to its steep
slopes, and fortresses whose foundations precede the age of
Islam guard entry to its valleys.
</p>
<p> Before 1987 the country was off limits to tourists. When he
deposed his father in 1970, Sultan Qaboos bin Said took over
one of the world's most primitive nations. With revenues from
oil, first discovered in 1954, the Sultan superimposed the
infrastructure of a modern state on Oman's tribal society. In
1985, celebrating 15 years on the throne, Qaboos hosted a
meeting of Arab rulers at the Al Bustan Palace Hotel, a
marble-and-tile monument to Arabian opulence on a
mountain-ringed bay near Muscat. It was a sort of coming-out
party, signaling the end of Oman's virtual isolation from the
outside world.
</p>
<p> In 1987 Qaboos cautiously opened the doors of the sultanate
to tourists--but on a highly selective basis. "We don't want
to see hippies with long hair and dirty jeans in any part of
the sultanate," said Commerce Minister Salim bin Abdullah
al-Ghazali. "We do not want tourism that will destroy our
dignity, our habits, our traditions." The government designated
local hotels and tour operators as sponsoring agents for
tourists and held them responsible for their clients' behavior.
To obtain a visa valid for up to three months, a hotel or
travel agency must submit a tourist's application to the
Department of Immigration.
</p>
<p> During the 1987-88 November through March season, 900
tourists came to Oman. This season an estimated 6,000 have
visited. (Tourism virtually ceases from April to October, when
temperatures routinely exceed 100 degrees F.) Nearly
three-fourths of Oman's tourists are Swiss, with the remainder
divided among Germans, Belgians, French and other Europeans.
For Japanese and American travelers, the sultanate still awaits
discovery--a consequence of lack of promotion, long-distance
travel and substantial expense. The preponderance of Swiss
largely reflects the promotion of Oman as a holiday mecca by
Kuoni Travel, a Zurich-based agency that flies more than 100
tourists each winter week to Muscat via Balair charter.
</p>
<p> It is not a cheap trip. For a seven-day, bed-and-breakfast
stay at the Al Bustan, the Kuoni round-trip tour from Zurich
costs $1,900 for one person and $3,400 a couple. Such prices
effectively exclude the unwanted backpack brigade. The mostly
middle-age European tourists who pay the fare are delighted
with the warm winter sunshine, pure air, clean beaches, good
food and wine, and comfortable accommodations at the Al Bustan,
its sister hotel the Muscat Inter-Continental, or one of the
other six major hotels in the Omani capital.
</p>
<p> Most tourists spend their time swimming and sunbathing,
interspersed with taking coach trips to restored Omani forts
and to traditional suqs (bazaars) in once remote trading
centers. There they bargain over silver ankle bracelets or
khanjars, the curved daggers in silver scabbards that bearded
Omani tribesmen belt around their hips as symbols of their
virility.
</p>
<p> The country's diversity also offers opportunities for camel
trekking in the Wahiba dunes, rock climbing in the Musandam
peninsula, skin diving and deep-sea fishing in the Indian
Ocean, spelunking in the limestone caves that honeycomb the
Hajar mountains and bird watching in the Dhofari salt marshes.
But perhaps the country's greatest attraction is the scarcity
of other tourists--an advantage that is, ironically, likely
to disappear as Oman's charms become better known.
</p>
</body>
</article>
</text>